98 articles

Yesterday, at some point…

cookies

… I finished the box of these delicious two moon rosemary sea salt shortbread cookies I got from Good Eggs last week.

Luckily, I had the presence of mind to photograph them before they disappeared. Unfortunately, I did not think to include another box in my next order, which makes me very sad.

How I will survive, I do not know.

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Yesterday, at some point is a series of photographs that describe a moment I experienced during the previous day. The posts are meant to be stand alone images, though at times I can’t control myself, and I end up expanding the caption into a more lengthy bit of text. Hopefully the extra information is useful, or at least interesting. If not, feel free to ignore it.

Any excuse to serve up some vinegar

Vinegar chicken

Our dinner the other night, thanks to the NY Times new cooking site and my daughter’s love of vinegar.

My daughter has long been a fan of vinegar in general. Pickles are one of her favorite foods, and she tends to lick the salad plate if I’ve made balsamic vinaigrette. So imagine my joy when I encountered this vinegar chicken recipe by Mark Bittman while trolling the almost overwhelmingly extensive and superb new cooking site from the New York Times.

Oh happy day. I get to go to Iacono in East Hampton, my favorite chicken farm, to pick up a fresh bird, maybe stop at the farm stand across the street for a side and we’ll be good to go.

And good it was. The chicken is perfectly crispy, the vinegar sauce is mellow but flavorful, the whole thing is done within 40 minutes with minimal prep (I think the most difficult part is cutting up the scallions) and my daughter lapped it up.

I’ve put the recipe below, but if you are feeling adventurous, here’s how it looks on the NY Times cooking site which is still in beta (Exciting! Get in on the ground floor!) and well worth checking out.

If you really want to go all out and learn all about the history of the dish and why it is a Bittman favorite, you can always check out the original article in the Paper Of Record.

Oh and the side dish of carrots, also delicious, is beyond easy. Just drizzle some cut carrots with olive oil, a little salt, and some chopped parsley and roast them in a 400 degree oven till they’re brown (about 15 mins), turn them over so the other side gets a chance to catch up (another 10 minutes or so) take them out and enjoy.

And now, without further ado, Mark Bittman’s Chicken with Vinegar

Ingredients

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 3-pound chicken, cut up for sauteing
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
ΒΌ cup minced shallots or scallions
1 cup good red-wine vinegar
1 tablespoon butter (optional)

Preparation

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Set a large ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. Add oil; when it is hot, place chicken in the skillet, skin side down. Cook undisturbed for about 5 minutes, or until chicken is nicely browned. Turn and cook 3 minutes on the other side. Season with salt and pepper.

Place skillet in the oven. Cook 15 to 20 minutes, or until almost done (juices will run clear, and there will be just a trace of pink near the bone). Remove chicken to an ovenproof platter. Place it in the oven; turn off the heat, and leave the door slightly ajar.

Pour all but 2 tablespoons of the cooking juices out of the skillet (discard them). Place skillet over medium-high heat, and add shallots; sprinkle them with a little salt and pepper, and cook, stirring, until tender, about 2 minutes. Add vinegar, and raise the heat to high. Cook a minute or two, or until the powerful acrid smell has subsided somewhat. Add 1/2 cup water, and cook for another 2 minutes, stirring, until the mixture is slightly reduced and somewhat thickened. Stir in butter, if desired.

Return the chicken and any accumulated juices to the skillet, and turn the chicken in the sauce. Serve immediately.

Tofu, anyone?

soy sauce tofu stirfry

One of these days, I will have the presence of mind to actually photograph the dish once I’ve cooked it. But in the meantime, I have borrowed this image, beautifully shot by Mark Weinberg, from Food52.

I have been in a bit of a food rut for the past few months… My energy seems to dry up right before I begin the long meandering path down the road of meal planning and grocery shopping. I have resolved to try to break out of it, despite still feeling terribly lazy. I am also not currently super motivated because I am spending the vast majority of my time alone with my 6 year old who would be happy to eat avocado risotto every day of her life, with a steak thrown in every now and then for good measure.

My cookbooks are back in Brooklyn with my husband, who doesn’t need them, so I am taking a very modern approach and turning to a few websites for guidance. Luckily, there is no shortage of recipes online. Right now, I find myself drawn to Dinner, a Love Story (almost more for reading pleasure than cooking, though she always has great ideas), Food52 (for it’s lovely photography, huge inventory and everyday cooking section) and the new, still in beta, NY Times Cooking site (which is state of the art, full of videos and informative how-to’s and will probably become everybody’s go-to once it “officially” launches.)

Last night’s dinner comes from Food52, which I must say has always done me right, and a quick and easy Soy Sauce-y, Peanut-y, Tofu over rice. Lots of soy sauce makes pretty much everything palatable to my daughter, and the hardest thing about the dish is locating Shaoxing wine, which I did not manage to do out here on the east end of Long Island. I used a dry sherry, which is evidently the western-style sub, but I plan on getting some of that exotic sounding brew when next I find myself in civilization. I feel like this meal (which ended in plate licking, by the way) is going to join the others on the heavy rotation list.

Here’s how to make it:

Serves 4, generously, which is good because you’re going to want leftovers.

The Tofu Part

2 blocks of tofu, extra firm or firm
2 onions, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon fresh ginger, minced
3/4 cups unsalted peanuts, whole or halved, roasted or raw (depending on personal taste and what they have at the store)
Cooking oil

The Sauce Part

3/4 cups soy sauce
2 tablespoons Shaoxing wine
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
1 tablespoon molasses (I used agave here because I didn’t have molasses)
A touch of lemon or lime
1/2 teaspoon roasted sesame oil

If you have time, press the tofu. (Place it under a weighted cutting board for a half-hour, letting the liquid run off or get absorbed by paper towels.) Dry it off. Then slice it into small cubes, in the 1/2-1-inch range.
In a wok or a large frying pan, heat a tablespoon of the oil on medium-high. Then add the onion and saute, stirring occasionally, until golden brown. Scrape it out of the pan and reserve for later.
While the onion is browning, stir together the sauce ingredients. Taste. It should be sweet and salty and a little bitter, too. Adjust until the flavors are aligned to your taste. You might want more molasses or more Shaoxing wine; you might need a squeeze or two of lemon or lime for more acidity.
When the onion is done, add a couple tablespoons of oil to the wok or pan and increase the heat to high. Add the tofu and immediately toss it with the hot oil. Then leave it alone. Let it sit for a few minutes, longer than seems wise. Once the tofu begins to brown, stir it to brown the remaining sides. It should take around ten minutes total. A minute before it is done, add the ginger and briefly saute it. Then spread the browned onions and peanuts on top and add the sauce. Gently stir, so that everything soaks in the sauce, and let the liquid reduce for a few minutes. Reduce until the sauce is as thin or thick as you like. Then turn off the heat, drizzle the sesame oil on top, and serve.

Hippie candy

st claire's organics lemon tarts

A practically guilt free candy to slip to your kids (or yourself) in an emergency. Which we all experience at one point or another…

Ok so we’ve been to the ice cream parlor. But sometimes we are in the car, or on the train, or at the bank desperately trying to keep the kids’ eyes off of the pot of those solid pieces of blue high fructose corn syrup disguised as lollipops. And for those times, I give you St Claire’s Organics’ Lemon Tarts.

Yes, they are slightly sweetened, but more by the molasses than by the organic cane sugar. And at least it’s just straight up sugar, like what’s in homemade cookies, and not syrup, like what’s in marshmallows and snickers bars. And they are tiny, but full of that sweet/tart dichotomous flavor, so a little goes a long way.

In my next life, I’m coming back as a No-Sugar-No-Screen-Media style parent (hopefully with a trust fund and a driver too, while I’m fantasizing.) I have read about how sugar is essentially poison and how TV before age 2 can really impede brain development. And I’ve already thrown out the plastic food storage containers and the non-glass water bottles, so I’m already half way there, right?

But in my current reality, I am choosing my battles, going for moderation rather than extinction, and hoping for the best. Every once in awhile, my kid gets some kind of candy. I have decided that watching old Wonder Woman episodes and sharing the occasional sweet with my daughter is too much fun to pass up completely. And if that makes me some kind of selfish parent, then so be it.

A cure for what ails you

Brooklyn Farmacy

When all else fails, get in your car or on the train (or walk, if you are lucky enough to live nearby) to the Brooklyn Farmacy for some old school ice cream fountain goodness.

Summer is here big time. My brain is already wilting with the heat and the haze and the unplannedness of it all. But I am doing my damndest just to slow down and enjoy it, rather than fight through these absolutely-no-time-to-myself days.

I have decided that it’s ok to let my kid watch a movie a day if that is the only time I have to get anything done for myself. It’s also ok to let bedtime slip back to 9:45 (or 10:30 as was the case last night) if that means she sleeps in till 9 am. It’s like living in Spain without having to travel.

And above all, it’s ok to have ice cream for lunch… it just is. Especially if you make an adventure out of it and head over to Carroll Gardens (What?? Leave Williamsburg?) to the stupendous old fashioned perfection of a soda fountain called the Brooklyn Farmacy. So named for it’s location in a former pharmacy and decorated with all sorts of ephemera from said establishment, this place is an egg cream lover’s dream. And a mac & cheese lover’s, and and ice cream sundae lover’s and a grilled sandwich lover’s… In fact there is something for just about everyone here. Check out their current menu– it changes seasonally– if you need more evidence.

the inside of Brooklyn Farmacy

Located in a former pharmacy, the place feels more like a genuine old neighborhood spot than the Disney-esque tourist traps that seem to be sprouting up like weeds all over Brooklyn these days.

We started a recent visit off with a mountain of their mac and cheese, steaming hot with the most perfect crust on the top. Plenty for the three of us to share and then feel less guilty about the main course… the star attraction… the ice cream.

icecream_sand

I stayed super traditional and went for the homemade vanilla with chocolate cookie ice cream sandwich, though they (of course) have all sorts of other combinations to choose from. It is one of my all time favorite forms in which to ingest ice cream and I will almost always order one if the opportunity arises. (And if you’re really feeling ambitious, here’s how to make your own!)

Josh had a good old straight up chocolate egg cream, that was ingested too quickly for me to photograph.

pink_float

But the piece de resistance, and leave it to my daughter to order it up, was the divine Pink Poodle, an ice cream float made from their homemade hibiscus soda topped with a huge scoop of vanilla ice cream.

By the time we left the place, it was as if nothing bad had ever happened to us ever and we lived in a universe filled with sunshine, sweetness and light.

And who doesn’t want to feel like that?

Just another rhubarb recipe

rhubarb toasts

Good Eggs’ Rhubarb Toasts. A lovely way to begin an early summer meal

Asparagus season is basically over. Garlic scapes are pretty much done too, as are ramps and fiddleheads. But rhubarb is still going strong in the New York area, at least for a few more weeks, and I am determined to take advantage of it’s tangy deliciousness as much as I can while it’s still available in it’s freshest form.

The good people over at Good Eggs (my favorite deliverers of locally produced and farm fresh food) just recently shared a killer recipe for their own Rhubarb Toasts and I figured it was my duty to pass it along to you guys while you still have the chance to pick up some big red stems of rhubarb and make some for yourselves. I made it the other night for a little appetizer and it was delicious… the kind of thing one imagines people who live with Alice Waters or Gabrielle Hamilton probably eat all the time.

Good Eggs Rhubarb Toasts

3 stalks chopped rhubarb
4 dashes of sugar (I was a bit more generous with the sugar)
Juice of one lemon
Bread for toasting (I used thick slices of hearty multigrain)
Fresh goat cheese

Preheat oven to 350 degrees

To prepare rhubarb: Toss rhubarb, lemon juice, and sugar to coat.
Wrap rhubarb in tin foil and place in the oven.
Bake for 20 minutes or until soft.

In the meantime: Prepare the bread, either in a toaster or below the rhubarb in the oven. Once browned, smear with goat cheese and top with rhubarb mixture. Garnish with mint and lemon zest.

Enjoy!

(Though you may be sad that you only made this much and will swear, like I have, to double the recipe the next time you make these…)

Shake it up in DUMBO

opening day of shake shack

Bringing a few chairs outside for opening day of the newest Shake Shack, in Brooklyn, right by the bridge.

The day before yesterday, my daughter and I walked across the Brooklyn Bridge with my 2 nieces and their parents, who are visiting from the west coast. I may have mentioned them previously.

It was the Hottest. Day. Ever.

Ok actually that’s not true, because yesterday was even worse, but it was still pretty intense… especially for June.

Before we set out on our journey to Manhattan, we wandered around DUMBO looking, of course, for a bathroom. Because kids only have to go at the most inopportune times, and I had been too busy concentrating on staying cool to make sure everyone had done the right thing before we left on our voyage in the first place. My bad.

Imagine my delight and surprise to see the words Shake Shack (parent-ese for restroom) shining in gold leaf right there on Old Fulton Street. The perfect solution! I get to drink my favorite NYC milkshake, the kids get to use the bathroom, we enjoy a bit of AC before the climb begins… I couldn’t have been happier.

shake shack DUMBO

Here I am, in a rare selfie, in front of the Shake Shack, excitedly thinking about the delicious (and cold!) milkshake I am about to have.

Until we headed inside and there was NO LINE!!??!! Which, at a Shake Shack, is a once in a lifetime experience. Turns out, it was opening day, so the word isn’t out yet. Who knew we were such trail blazers?

shake shack DUMBO

This is a terrible photograph, but I just had to include it because there was basically NO LINE. And I wanted to make sure you all believed me…

So let me help spread the news: There is a beautiful, spacious, air conditioned Shake Shack filled with deliciousness (and a bathroom) just waiting for you to enjoy right by the Brooklyn Bridge Park, Jane’s Carousel and all the other stuff that DUMBO has to offer. Much of the wood used in the interior was even resourced from old factories in the neighborhood… How’s that for responsible building?

Run Don’t Walk, because I can’t imagine that the line-less situation will last for long once the people find out.

Yesterday, at some point…

strawberry

Last weekend we went strawberry picking and this particular example won the prize as the most oddly shaped berry any of us had ever seen. It was delicious, though, as was the rest of the haul. It’s a miracle any made it all the way home with us.

The real prime season for this delectable fruit is quickly coming to an end, so if you can get yourselves out to a farm for some picking, now is the time. If you’re on the east end of Long Island, I strongly recommend Hank’s Farmstand in Southampton, which offers strawberries, raspberries and blackberries as well as pumpkins for the picking. Nice fields and not at all crowded, this place feels like an actual farm rather than the suburban petting zoo style spots I’m sure we’ve all experienced at least once.

Oh and don’t forget the sunscreen!

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Yesterday, at some point is a series of photographs that describe a moment I experienced during the previous day. The posts are meant to be stand alone images, though at times I can’t control myself, and I end up expanding the caption into a more lengthy bit of text. Hopefully the extra information is useful, or at least interesting. If not, feel free to ignore it.

Why I kind of wish I were a french mom in the late sixties

Christine Ripault

Children’s cookbook author Christine Ripault, back in the day, just casually stirring up a few things for the kids.

It’s quite obvious, isn’t it? Because I would get to dress like above pictured french author Christine Ripault, and feed my kids things like malted milk and carrot juice for breakfast and Wheatena soup with swiss cheese for dinner. Or supper, as it’s referred to in her book.

I can’t remember now exactly why I bought a copy of Ripault’s out-of-print-yet-still-available classic book Children’s Gastronomique, but I did, and I have loved it continually ever since. As the book hails from the pre-everything-is-processed days of the 1960′s, the food is wholesome, but not at all precious. Boiling and chopping up some lettuce leaves and adding this to cream of wheat is something I would never have thought up on my own, nor would I have found it in any of my Alice Waters-esque slow food style cookbooks, which I love, by the way. But boy did my daughter love this dish back in the day when she was just starting to eat solid food.

And there are some simple but also delicious recipes from major Parisian kitchens… The chef at Maxim’s, for example, recommends this Brill Fillet Au Court-Bouillon in which you prepare a court-bouillon (basically a vegetable broth with vinegar and some herbs), then use it to poach a fish fillet in a covered pan till it’s done, toss a bit of salt and pepper on and finally serve it up with butter and lemon juice.

Delicious!

Sure, we’ve learned a thing or two about nutrition since then, and for one thing might now trade in some of the white bread for whole grain, but the essence is still there. Plus it’s just so great to absorb how nonchalant the french are when it comes to just about anything. Very refreshing, especially if you are, like I was, an over researched, slightly anxious, secretly insecure new mother.

But at the end of the day, as long as I just show up to cook dinner in outfits like my girl Christine’s, I’ll win any kind of parenting contest hands down!

Children's Gastronomique, by Christine Ripault

Here’s my copy of the renowned book, a bit beat up but all the better for the wear, if you ask me. Published way back in 1968. Still available on Alibris and eBay.

Yesterday, at some point…

waiting_at_LI

It is finally summer, and with the season comes the horrible Sunday night traffic on the Long Island Expressway.

But all is not lost, for the venerable Lobster Inn (now officially called the Lobster Grille Inn, but whatever) is open for business. And driving back to the city full of delicious lobsters and mussels and french fries and salads makes the whole bumper to bumper situation considerably more bearable.

Plus you get to hang out by the water (see above) whilst waiting for the feast to begin.

ps: Please forgive me… The regular Monday links post is coming, but a bit late this week.

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Yesterday, at some point is a series of photographs that describe a moment I experienced during the previous day. The posts are meant to be stand alone images, though at times I can’t control myself, and I end up expanding the caption into a more lengthy bit of text. Hopefully the extra information is useful, or at least interesting. If not, feel free to ignore it.